Train to Tai Yuan, Bus to Pingyao

From the train today we saw the evidence of rapid, unregulated development of rural China.

First, there were multiple high rises built in the middle of corn fields, or on the edges of rural settlements. Some finished, most not, all too large and tall to be at all useful in these regions. Apparently most are emply, some are the result of corrupt officials allowing unscrupulous developers sweetheart deals on the land, and helping with unwise financing deals. This went on for mile after mile after mile, for hours and hours. It seems that China is positioned for the burst of a real estate bubble. The sense of impending doom looking at these buildings was strong.

Then we entered the coal mining region of central China, and things got even worse. By worse I mean uglier, more polluted, more eroded, and more inexplicable. High rise housing right next to open pit mines. Air the color of urine. Smog so thick that the billows from smokestacks were visible, but not the smokestacks themselves. 

We got off the train in Tai Yuan, a town of 3 million, with horrible traffic and people living in rubble between the high rises. Lunch at a local banquet restaurant treated us to some of the most unusual food we have had so far, including something I'm certain was pig's ear stir fried with peanuts. Also millet steamed in a peeled pumpkin. We were treated to some very highly amplified entertainment, including a guy making hand stretched noodles. There were Chinese groups singing karaoke in the other room.

Then the bus took us farther into the countryside. We made a stop at an old mansion, which consisted of a mazelike series of interlocking courtyards. It was apparently used as a location in the movie "Raise the Red Lantern" (which I've not seen), so I think that explains all the.... red lanterns.

However, it really felt absurd and crazy to be stopping at a tourist destination in the middle of an environmental disaster zone. The air was thick and smokey from coal fires, smelled sulfurous and toxic. The people in the neighborhood around the mansion are clearly living in poverty unlike anything we saw in the capitol. Even the dogs we saw were filthy and crusty. 

The air only got worse and more frightening as we drove through the falling dusk to tonight's destination, Pingyao. This is an anciet walled city that has been preserved / restored, and is a UNESCO world heritage site. All I can thnk of is the pulmonary assault everyone here suffers by just breathing. June tells us the pollution and environmental destruction is much worse in other parts of China. I find this so horrifying it's hard to enjoy the lovely room I'm staying in here in this boutique hotel within city walls. It feels hellish.

Tomorrow we tour the city on foot. Between the bone-chilling cold and the coal smoke air, I'm not sure how much fun that will be. Stay tuned.